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While the clamp that seals the crankcase ventilation valve is not as critical as a fuel seal, it is always a good idea to replace it (red arrow). This hose gets old and will dry up and leak over time. Using the factory crankcase breather (T-fitting) run a piece of heater/vacuum hose down to the crank breather and T it with the valve cover and then run it down to the bottom of the car, so it can dump below and out of sight!. There are a series of hoses and valves making up the vacuum and emission systems on the vehicle. The main areas to check are above the intake air cleaner (red arrow), to the right side of the rear of the engine cover (yellow arrow), and to the rear of the intake manifold (green arrow) and the intake manifold itself (blue arrow). Honestly, you could go ahead and follow this DIY and just rid yourself of the lines/valves, but I would HIGHLY recommend you read the following two links (in order) so you can gain a better understanding of the system, how it works, and where to look if something goes wrong. That is the control linkage for the variable intake flap. I would start by repairing it. Give The Pelican Parts parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can figure out what part or repair kit you need. Everything between the solenoid and the motor after the solenoid on the passenger side can be removed; including its connections to the TIP and to the intake manifold. - Nick at Pelican Parts. There is no lights coming up. Besides the rough idling, it takes long to start at cold. The are two 5mm hex bolts that hold it to the turbo (one from up top and one from underneath - the bolts are adjacent to one another). Built by RavenMS. Powered by PSI Concepts & GIAC. I would suggest you grab a repair manual, you should own one. It will have the procedure, special tools and torque specs. --Without triggering a CEL, you can remove pretty everything except SAI. To remove SAI without CEL, use block off plate: (google: APEX TUNING) will not trigger a CEL as long as the solenoid is plugged in (the one thats on the back of the intake box from the factory). Re: DIY - B6 1.8t - Vacuum line and Check Valve removal/simplification. Next we will be removing the EGR valve and its breather tube (for this you will have to have the Integrated Engineering block off plate. I would recommend you get it through Apex Tuning - great customer service ). Remove the one-time-use hose clamp that is circled and also unbolt the three 5mm hex bolts that are in-between the head and firewall). - Vent Tube - (058 103 213C / 058 103 213M) 058103213C 058103213M. Comments: Blandy, you've probably found out by now where the hose in question connects to, but if you still haven't - it goes to the Diverter valve on the turbo. The area to the rear of the intake air box contains the EVAP valve (red arrow) and lines (yellow arrow). If the EVAP valve is throwing an error code, it is best to just replace it. The lines should be checked for condition and replaced as needed. The hose clamps used from the factory need a special tool to reuse. Most people just pry the clamp off with a screwdriver and replace the clamp with a standard hose clamp. They should only plug in one way, specific to each connection. Re: DIY - B6 1.8t - Vacuum line and Check Valve removal/simplification. Re: DIY - B6 1.8t - Vacuum line and Check Valve removal/simplification. Re: DIY - B6 1.8t - Vacuum line and Check Valve removal/simplification. Using either new vacuum hose or existing vacuum hose, attach the brake booster to either of the two port circled. After you attach the brake booster you must plug the other port. This is how I temporarily set it up.